Saturday, March 22, 2014
Megasquirt Kits / Assembled Engine Management Systems, Wideband o2 Sensor Systems and tuning products - DIYAutoTune.com
Megasquirt Kits / Assembled Engine Management Systems, Wideband o2 Sensor Systems and tuning products - DIYAutoTune.com:
arduino [ turbo ] boost controller anyone?
arduino boost controller anyone? - Turbobricks Forums
There is a much easier and IMO superior solution to this which already exists. It's the Saab APC unit, which you can purchase for around $50.
It includes an ECU, which monitors and controls the boost pressure. The ECU can also be opened up and modified easily, changing the boost rise rate (F), maximum pressure (P) and knock sensitivity (K).
It includes a pressure transducer, which basically reads the vacuum/boost pressure and turns it to an electronic signal that the ECU can work with.
It includes a solenoid valve, the same as the GM 3-way valve used in your example. It has 3 vacuum connections on it, W to control the turbo waste gate. C to the compressor housing and R is returned to the intake after the AMM to be 'recycled.'
It also includes a wiring harness which is very easy to setup.
The way that it works is just like the setup described in your link, however.. There's a few key improvements over that one and reasons I swear by the Saab APC system.
1. The APC is connected to your engine's knock sensor (or you can add another knock sensor just for the APC) and the boost level is based entirely on the sensor's reading. The APC system will provide your engine with the maximum boost level until it starts to sense detonation, at which point it will begin backing off the pressure at 1.5PSI intervals until the knock sensor is happy. So your boost level is ALWAYS set at the maximum pressure that is SAFE for your engine at the current MOMENT.
2. Since it is connected to the knock sensor, it also supports a knock light which can be mounted in the cabin.
3. Like I said before, the system can be modified very easily (and quickly if the ECU is mounted somewhere you can access it) to adjust the maximum boost, the boost rise rate and the knock sensitivity.
4. The APC system defaults to the waste gate when the brakes are pressed in the Saab, this can be simulated by grounding one of the pins on the ECU and can be controlled if hooked up to a switch. So you can turn the boost control on and off easily from the cabin. So you can switch between your car's original boost level for MPG and the APC system for performance on the fly.
I'm a tech junkie, so if it's the experience of building your own system that you're after; I totally get it. Not trying to dissuade you from acquiring a new skill, just pointing out some very cool features that can be implemented on the setup you've described. However, if it's an affordable electronic boost controller that you're after, there you go. Either way, it's a system you should consider looking into if you're wanting to build something similar.
I bought mine, entire APC system including everything for $40 shipped here on TurboBricks a few years back.
It includes an ECU, which monitors and controls the boost pressure. The ECU can also be opened up and modified easily, changing the boost rise rate (F), maximum pressure (P) and knock sensitivity (K).
It includes a pressure transducer, which basically reads the vacuum/boost pressure and turns it to an electronic signal that the ECU can work with.
It includes a solenoid valve, the same as the GM 3-way valve used in your example. It has 3 vacuum connections on it, W to control the turbo waste gate. C to the compressor housing and R is returned to the intake after the AMM to be 'recycled.'
It also includes a wiring harness which is very easy to setup.
The way that it works is just like the setup described in your link, however.. There's a few key improvements over that one and reasons I swear by the Saab APC system.
1. The APC is connected to your engine's knock sensor (or you can add another knock sensor just for the APC) and the boost level is based entirely on the sensor's reading. The APC system will provide your engine with the maximum boost level until it starts to sense detonation, at which point it will begin backing off the pressure at 1.5PSI intervals until the knock sensor is happy. So your boost level is ALWAYS set at the maximum pressure that is SAFE for your engine at the current MOMENT.
2. Since it is connected to the knock sensor, it also supports a knock light which can be mounted in the cabin.
3. Like I said before, the system can be modified very easily (and quickly if the ECU is mounted somewhere you can access it) to adjust the maximum boost, the boost rise rate and the knock sensitivity.
4. The APC system defaults to the waste gate when the brakes are pressed in the Saab, this can be simulated by grounding one of the pins on the ECU and can be controlled if hooked up to a switch. So you can turn the boost control on and off easily from the cabin. So you can switch between your car's original boost level for MPG and the APC system for performance on the fly.
I'm a tech junkie, so if it's the experience of building your own system that you're after; I totally get it. Not trying to dissuade you from acquiring a new skill, just pointing out some very cool features that can be implemented on the setup you've described. However, if it's an affordable electronic boost controller that you're after, there you go. Either way, it's a system you should consider looking into if you're wanting to build something similar.
I bought mine, entire APC system including everything for $40 shipped here on TurboBricks a few years back.
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Friday, March 21, 2014
I promise to treat you as good as my leather and ride you as much as my Harley.
I promise to treat you as good as my leather and ride yo as much as my Harley.
ride-you-sas-much-as-my-harley.jpg (640×640):
Tuesday, March 18, 2014
1982 Kawasaki GPZ 550
1982 Kawasaki GPZ 550
Up for sale ($980) 1982 Kawasaki GPZ 550. Runs and Drives. Just put in a new battery yesterday. All the lights and signals function properly. New clutch, clutch pushrod, clutch cable. Carbeurators need syncronized the guy that had it before me split the carbs to clean them and never synced them in no big deal. Newer tires. Comes with a helmet that matches the bike.
Up for sale ($980) 1982 Kawasaki GPZ 550. Runs and Drives. Just put in a new battery yesterday. All the lights and signals function properly. New clutch, clutch pushrod, clutch cable. Carbeurators need syncronized the guy that had it before me split the carbs to clean them and never synced them in no big deal. Newer tires. Comes with a helmet that matches the bike.
Sunday, March 16, 2014
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